Exploring authentic Madeira: off-the-beaten-path family adventures

2 weeks in Madeira with kids - what to see, where to go, where to eat

Seixal: 4 nights of tranquility

Nestled along the northern coast of Madeira, Seixal offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle. With its charming seaside village atmosphere and breathtaking landscapes, it's the perfect place to start your family adventure.

We stayed in a lone little house at the end of the pier: the Dock House. It is a 19th century building that used to be used as a warehouse for barrels of wine to be transported along the coast to other remote villages (as roads were non existent due to the landscape). It has been cleverly turned into a small house keeping its appearance. It sits between the natural rock pool and the sandy beach. The only awkward thing is that there is no outdoor space, you sit on the quay and many people walk past. However, because the place is so remote, even in high season, people only arrive at about lunchtime and leave before dinner. This means we had all mornings and evenings with the whole place almost to ourselves: house, quays, beach, pool. Bliss!

Places to visit in Seixal:

  1. Seixal Natural Pools: Dive into crystal-clear natural pools carved into volcanic rock, providing a refreshing and safe swimming experience for the whole family. Our kids paddle-boarded alone in those pools and we snorkeled too.

  2. Ribeira Funda Waterfall: Embark on a picturesque hike to witness the majestic Ribeira Funda Waterfall, cascading from the verdant mountains into the Atlantic Ocean.

  3. Miradouro da Garganta Funda: Enjoy panoramic views of the dramatic cliffs and coastline from this stunning viewpoint.

What to eat in Seixal:

  1. Espetada Regional: Savour the local specialty, Espetada Regional, a skewer of marinated and grilled beef or fish, served with traditional Madeiran sides. You will find these everywhere on the island.

  2. Bolo do Caco: Don't miss the chance to try Bolo do Caco, a round, flat bread typically served with garlic butter—perfect as a snack or starter. An absolute must!


Fajã da Ovelha: a week amidst Madeira’s dramatic landscape

For a more immersive experience, head to Faja da Ovelha, a tranquil village perched on Madeira's southwestern cliffs. The scenic drive from Seixal to Faja da Ovelha offers glimpses of the island's diverse landscapes.

There we stayed in a villa nestled in the steep hills. The villa was stunning with all the mod cons and more. We loved it for the simplicity of the check-in and booking process overall, the pool with the view and the quiet of the area. Make sure you have the handbrake on when leaving the car!

Must-see in Faja da Ovelha:

  1. Ponta do Pargo Lighthouse: Explore the westernmost point of the island and visit the iconic Ponta do Pargo Lighthouse, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding sea (some of the best on the island).

  2. Levada Nova: Take a leisurely stroll along the Levada Nova, a picturesque irrigation channel that winds through the lush countryside, providing a unique perspective of Madeira's interior.

  3. Calheta Beach: Relax on the golden sands of Calheta Beach, just a short drive away, and enjoy the warm waters of the Atlantic. One of the rare beaches on the island.

Local flavours in Faja da Ovelha:

  1. Milho Frito: Delight in Milho Frito, a traditional dish made from fried cubes of polenta, often served as a side or snack.

  2. Lapas: Sample Lapas, grilled limpets that capture the essence of Madeiran seafood cuisine.


Funchal: 3 nights of urban charms

Wrap up your Madeira adventure with a visit to the vibrant capital city of Funchal. From historical sites to bustling markets, Funchal offers a perfect blend of culture and modernity.

There we stayed in a resort for ease of timing (Pestana). But there are plenty of other options available.

Must-Do in Funchal (with kids):

The most fun part of our stay in Madeira? 

The Monte wicker basket ride. It is one of Madeira’s most famous attractions and rightly so. Dating back to the 1850s, the Monte wicker baskets were the primary means of downhill public transportation in Funchal. 

Two men, called “Carreiros” dressed in white and wearing straw hats, push and brake the basket. They wear special, rubber-soled shoes that help them steer. The basket is is essentially a wicker basket attached to two wooden runners. A bit like a low-tech bobsled on the road. 

The trip to the bottom takes about 10 minutes down a curvy road, and you can expect to reach speeds up to 40km/h.

The run goes down and crosses active, in-use streets! Yes! And the roads have become sleek and shiny because of the gliders. So much fun!

Key attractions in Funchal:

  1. Funchal Old Town: Wander through the cobbled streets of the Old Town, exploring historic buildings, vibrant street art, and quaint cafes. You could also take a tuk-tuk tour to the highest viewpoint in the city. Great fun for the family.

  2. Monte Palace Tropical Garden: Immerse yourself in the beauty of the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, featuring exotic plants, tranquil lakes, and stunning views of Funchal.

  3. Mercado dos Lavradores: Dive into the lively atmosphere of Mercado dos Lavradores, a bustling market where you can taste fresh produce, local delicacies, and handmade crafts. Try: Madeira bananas (much smaller than the usual ones), passion fruit bananas (passion fruits in a long banana-like skin) or chayotes.

Culinary highlights in Funchal:

  1. Espada com Banana: Indulge in Espada com Banana, a unique dish combining scabbardfish with bananas, showcasing the island's fusion of flavors.

  2. Madeira Wine Tasting: Visit one of the many wine cellars in Funchal to savor the world-renowned Madeira wine, a fortified wine with a rich and distinctive taste.



Other sights we loved around the island:

Museu da baleia, Caniçal: a whaling museum. Kids loved this museum about the times where whales were hunted and Madeira was at its richest. Educational and fun. Audio-guide was well worth it. While you are there, head to the Eastern tip of Madeira, Ponta de São Lourenço. A gorgeous barren peace of land.

Fajã dos Padres: a tiny little end-of-the-world piece of land at the bottom of a steep cliff. You access it via a cable car. There is a beach, a small restaurant at the bottom after a short walk through the fruit trees and vines. Perfect for a sunny afternoon. Bring the swimming gear as there is a small rocky beach.

Cabo Girão: a steep cliff of over 500m with a glass platform. Stunning view of the island, yet again (except if you are afraid of heights, maybe).

Jardim do Mar: a beautiful little village set up like a little labyrinth of tiny streets, beautiful gardens and plants galore.

Curral das Freiras: a tiny village in the middle of the mountains. It is geographically isolated from other communities by the cliffs and peaks surrounding its central valley.


Transport tip:

For the ultimate freedom to explore, consider renting a car upon arrival at Madeira Airport. Madeira is not well served by public transport due to its landscape. Driving is easy and will mean you can go wherever you want.


Get ready for an incredible adventure as you dive into this off-the-beaten-path journey across the enchanting island of Madeira! Get set to uncover the real-deal charm and mind-blowing landscapes that turn Madeira into the ultimate family hotspot you won't want to forget. 🌴✨

Previous
Previous

3 weeks in the Azores with kids: itinerary and tips

Next
Next

German Christmas market food guide: 20 foods to try