Évora day trip from Lisbon with kids: a slow, beautiful day out
Inside: a tested family itinerary for a day trip to Évora from Lisbon by train, including the Chapel of Bones, where to eat, the best shops, and why this is the day trip nobody thinks to do
I took my kids to a church made of human bones. They talked about it for weeks.
Évora is one of my favourite day trips from Lisbon and almost nobody visiting Portugal thinks to go there. Everyone does Sintra. Many do Cascais. A few do Óbidos. But Évora? It barely makes the list, and I honestly think that's what makes it so special.
It's about 1h30 by direct train from Lisbon, it feels completely different from the capital, and it's one of those places that makes you realise how much of Portugal most tourists miss entirely. The Alentejo region is vast, quiet, and deeply Portuguese in a way that Lisbon and the Algarve simply aren't.
I'm going to be upfront with you: Évora is not a jam-packed, tick-off-a-hundred-things kind of day. If that's what you want, go to Sintra. Évora is a slow day. A wander-through-beautiful-streets, eat-really-well, buy-something-lovely, let-the-kids-run-in-a-park kind of day. And for families, that's often exactly what you need between the bigger, busier days.
How to get to Évora from Lisbon by train
The train departs from Lisbon Oriente station (on the red metro line), with stops at Entrecampos and Sete Rios too. It's a direct Intercidades service run by CP (Comboios de Portugal) and takes about 1 hour 30 minutes.
Here's what you need to know:
There are a handful of trains per day (around 5 on weekdays, 3 on weekends). This isn't a hop-on-hop-off commuter service. You need to plan around the timetable.
For a day trip, catch the 9:02 (weekdays) or 9:52 (weekends) and aim for the 16:57 return. That gives you a solid 4 to 5 hours in Évora, which is plenty.
Book your tickets a few days before on cp.pt. Seats are allocated. Tickets cost around €16.50 for 2nd class return. You can also buy at the station, but not on the train.
From Évora station, it's about a 10-minute walk into the old town. Head straight up Rua da República until you reach Praça do Giraldo, the main square. It's much more flat than Lisbon and straightforward.
What to do in Évora with kids
Évora is a UNESCO World Heritage city, which sounds grand, but in practice it means a gorgeous, compact old town with golden stone walls, pretty squares, and the kind of quiet that feels like a deep breath after Lisbon. Here's what to see.
The Chapel of Bones (Capela dos Ossos)
Let's get straight to the main event. The Capela dos Ossos is a tiny chapel inside the Church of St. Francis, and its walls and columns are made entirely of real human bones and skulls. Around 5,000 skeletons were used. It's eerie, fascinating, and a little bit dark. Kids are completely gripped by it.
Is it too creepy for children? That depends on your child, obviously, but mine found it more fascinating than frightening. The bones are centuries old and the atmosphere is more reflective than scary. There's a famous inscription above the entrance that translates to something like "We bones that are here, await yours." My lot thought that was the coolest thing they'd ever read.
Tickets cost around €15 for a family. Worth every cent for the look on your kids' faces alone. Don’t miss reading the explanations.
The Roman Temple of Diana
Right in the middle of town, you'll find a 2,000-year-old Roman temple just sitting there in a square, as if that's completely normal. It's one of the best-preserved Roman structures on the Iberian Peninsula. You can't go inside, but it's free to see and genuinely impressive. Younger kids might not care, but older ones who've studied the Romans at school tend to find it pretty special.
The Cathedral (Sé de Évora)
Just around the corner from the temple is Évora's cathedral, which looks more like a fortress than a church. It's imposing from the outside and beautiful inside, but the real draw for families is the rooftop. You can climb to the top for amazing panoramic views over the city and the Alentejo plains beyond. It's a bit of a scramble on narrow stone steps, which kids tend to love.
The Public Garden (Jardim Público)
When everyone needs a break (and they will, especially in summer), head to the Jardim Público. It's a lovely, shaded park with ducks and birds, winding paths, and a kiosk café where you can sit with a coffee while the kids run around. It's the kind of moment that makes a slow day trip feel exactly right.
Playground just outside the city walls
There's a playground just outside the old city walls that's worth knowing about, especially if you have younger children. It's nothing fancy, but after a morning of sightseeing, sometimes a swing and a slide is all they need.
Stroll the UNESCO old town
Beyond the main sights, the best thing you can do in Évora is simply walk. The old town is compact and pedestrian-friendly, full of narrow streets, whitewashed houses with yellow and blue trim, and beautiful tile work on unexpected corners. There's no rush. That's the whole point.
Where to eat in Évora with kids
Dom Joaquim
For lunch, head to Dom Joaquim for proper traditional Alentejano food. This is the real thing: hearty, flavourful, and very much a local restaurant rather than a tourist spot. The Alentejo has its own distinct cuisine that's different from what you'll find in Lisbon or Porto, with lots of slow-cooked meats (carne de porco à alentejana is a dish everyone loves), bread-based dishes, and bold flavours. Kids who are adventurous eaters will love it. For the less adventurous, there are usually simpler options available too.
The Alentejo is also known for its incredible wines, so if you're not driving back to Lisbon (and you're not, because you're taking the train, clever you), treat yourself.
Where to shop in Évora: the best souvenirs in Portugal
This is where Évora really surprised me. The Alentejo is the heartland of Portuguese craftsmanship, and the shops here reflect that. Forget the mass-produced tourist tat you find in Lisbon. Here, you'll find the real thing.
Gente da Minha Terra
This is my favourite shop in Évora and I could have spent ages in here. Everything is made in Portugal by small, independent artisans. You'll find beautiful ceramics, textiles, wooden toys, soaps, and all sorts of lovely gifts. It's the kind of shop where you actually want to buy souvenirs, because everything is unique and beautifully made. The kids found gifts for their friends here too.
Cork everything
The Alentejo is the heart of Portugal's cork industry, and you'll see cork products everywhere in Évora. Bags, wallets, jewellery, hats, postcards, even umbrellas. The quality is excellent and the prices are much better than what you'd pay in Lisbon's tourist shops. Cork is sustainable, beautiful, and very Portuguese. It makes a brilliant souvenir.
Ceramics
The Alentejo is also a major ceramics region. You'll find gorgeous hand-painted tiles, plates, bowls, and decorative pieces in shops throughout the old town. If you've been admiring the tilework on the buildings, this is your chance to take a piece home (not from the walls, please).
Livraria Nazareth
If you have bookworms or little ones, pop into Livraria Nazareth. They have the cutest selection of books and children's toys. It's a lovely independent bookshop and the kind of place where the kids will want to browse while you catch your breath.
A suggested schedule for the day
9:00ish Train from Lisbon Oriente
10:30 Arrive Évora, walk up through the old town to the Roman Temple
10:45 Roman Temple and Cathedral (climb to the top for views)
11:30 Stroll back down through the old town, browse the shops (Gente da Minha Terra, cork shops, Livraria Nazareth)
12:30 Lunch at Dom Joaquim
14:00 Chapel of Bones (indoors, perfect for the hottest part of the day)
14:45 Jardim Público or playground for downtime
15:30 Walk back to station
16:57 Train back to Lisbon (check cp.pt for current times)
Practical tips for an Évora day trip with kids
It gets seriously hot in summer. The Alentejo is one of the hottest parts of Portugal. Hats, sunscreen, and water bottles are non-negotiable. Do the walking and outdoor exploring in the morning while it's cooler, and save the Chapel of Bones for after lunch when you'll want to be indoors. If you're visiting in July or August, be prepared for temperatures above 40°C.
Plan your day around the train times. There are very few services. Miss your return train and you're waiting hours for the next one (or taking the bus, which is more frequent but slower). Set an alarm if you need to.
4 to 5 hours is enough. You don't need a full 8-hour day here. The old town is compact and the main sights are close together. A relaxed morning and early afternoon is perfect, especially with children.
Wear comfortable shoes. The streets are cobbled throughout. Pushchairs work but it's bumpy.
Évora is flat (compared to other cities in Portugal). Unlike Lisbon, you won't be climbing endless hills. This makes a huge difference with tired legs.
The train is part of the experience. The ride through the Alentejo countryside is beautiful. Rolling plains, cork oak forests, olive groves. It's a very different landscape from anything you'll see around Lisbon. Grab a window seat.
Frequently asked questions
Is Évora worth a day trip from Lisbon?
Yes, if you want something completely different from Lisbon. Évora is a UNESCO World Heritage city in the Alentejo region, about 1h30 by direct train. It's quieter, slower, and full of history. It works best as a relaxed day out rather than a jam-packed itinerary. If you only have time for one day trip from Lisbon and want busy sightseeing, Sintra might suit you better. But if you want something more authentic and off the beaten path, Évora is the one.
How do you get from Lisbon to Évora without a car?
By direct Intercidades train from Lisbon Oriente, Entrecampos, or Sete Rios stations. The journey takes about 1h30 and tickets cost around €16.50 for 2nd class. There are around 5 trains per day on weekdays and 3 on weekends, so plan around the timetable. Alternatively, the Rede Expressos bus service runs more frequently (up to 23 departures per day) and takes about the same time.
Is the Chapel of Bones suitable for children?
Most children find it fascinating rather than scary. The bones are centuries old and the atmosphere is reflective rather than horror-movie. That said, you know your child best. If they're very sensitive or easily frightened, it might be worth skipping or preparing them beforehand. Most kids aged 6+ handle it well and find it one of the most memorable things they do in Portugal.
How hot does Évora get in summer?
Very hot. The Alentejo is one of the hottest regions in Portugal, with temperatures regularly exceeding 40°C in July and August. If you're visiting in summer, bring hats, water bottles, and plan to be indoors during the hottest hours. Spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) are much more comfortable for a family day trip.
How long do you need in Évora?
4 to 5 hours is enough to see the main sights, eat well, and browse the shops at a relaxed pace. The old town is compact, so you won't waste time getting between things. If you want to explore the wider Alentejo region (Monsaraz, Alqueva), you'll need at least one or two overnights.
What's the difference between a day trip to Sintra and a day trip to Évora?
Sintra is busy, hilly, and packed with fairy-tale palaces. It's spectacular but exhausting, especially with kids. Évora is the opposite: quiet, flat, and slow. Sintra is about the sights. Évora is about the atmosphere. Both are worth doing if you have the time, but they offer completely different experiences. I'd say do Sintra for spectacle and Évora for soul.
Planning a family trip to Portugal?
If this post has piqued your interest in the Alentejo (or you're planning a trip to Portugal and want someone to help you figure out which bits are right for your family), I'm here for that.
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And don't forget to grab my free Alentejo Cheat Sheet if you want to explore more of this stunning region.
