Inside: a family guide to Guimarães, the birthplace of Portugal, including the castle, the cable car up Penha, a secret tavern built inside a rock, and why this beats Sintra for families

If you like castles, history and places where kids can actually run around and explore rather than stand behind a rope, Guimarães needs to be on your Portugal list.

Forget the long queues and overpriced palaces of Sintra. Guimarães is where Portugal was born, quite literally. It's called the "Cradle of Portugal" because this is where the country's first king, Afonso Henriques, was born and where the nation's identity took shape. And unlike Sintra, it's compact, walkable, family-friendly and blissfully uncrowded.

But here's the thing most guides won't tell you: the real magic of Guimarães isn't just in the old town. It's up a mountain, inside a rock.

Exploring the old town

Guimarães is a pedestrian-friendly paradise. The UNESCO-listed old town is all narrow cobbled streets lined with colourful houses, granite balconies, iron verandas, and traditional shops. It's the kind of place where you can genuinely just wander. No map needed.

Start at Largo do Toural, the main square, and work your way uphill through the historic centre. As you walk, point out the details to the kids: the carved stone doorways, the medieval street layout, the tiny alleyways. If your children are into history (or can be bribed into it), this place will spark something.

Rua de Santa Maria is one of the oldest streets in the city. Buildings on both sides date back to the 12th and 13th centuries. It connects the lower town to the castle, so you'll walk it naturally.

The castle

No trip to Guimarães is complete without the castle. It sits on a hilltop overlooking the city, and it's the real deal: thick stone walls, towers, ramparts you can walk along, and the kind of atmosphere that makes kids pretend to be knights without any encouragement from you.

It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Portugal's Seven Wonders, but what I love about it is that it's not precious. Kids can climb, explore, and run around. There are no roped-off areas or audio guides to shush them through. The views from the top are stunning and it makes for a brilliant family photo.

Palace of the Dukes of Bragança

Right next to the castle, the Palace of the Dukes of Bragança is worth a visit if your family enjoys interiors. It's a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture with impressive towers, a charming courtyard, and a collection of tapestries, ceramics and medieval weapons inside. The weapons room tends to hold kids' attention longer than the tapestries, unsurprisingly.

Sweets and people-watching

After the historical sights, head to Largo da Oliveira, the bustling heart of the old town. There are cafés, restaurants and ice cream shops all around this gorgeous square. It's the perfect spot for a sit-down break while the kids have a gelato. And keep your eyes open for Cidália. She is believed to be the last traditional sweet street vendor in Guimarães, and she's a local treasure. You'll find her in the old town selling traditional Portuguese sweets from her tray. Say hello, buy something, and you'll make her day (and yours).

Where to eat in the old town: Taberna Trovador

For lunch in the historic centre, head to Taberna Trovador. It serves petiscos (Portuguese small plates, like tapas) and it's perfect for families. You order as many or as few dishes as you like, so everyone gets to try different things. The adults can have a glass of vinho verde, the regional green wine, while the kids work their way through whatever catches their eye. Relaxed, affordable, and genuinely good food.

Penha: the bit most families miss (and shouldn't)

This is the part of Guimarães that I think every family needs to know about.

You take a cable car from the city centre up Montanha da Penha, and at the top you find an enormous mountain covered in house-sized granite boulders. And when I say enormous, I mean rocks that kids can climb over, crawl under, squeeze between and completely lose themselves in. It's like a natural adventure playground that no one designed. My kids were obsessed.

There are walking trails through the woods, a sanctuary (Santuário da Penha) with panoramic views that stretch all the way to the coast, mini golf, and the kind of fresh air that makes everyone sleep well that night.

The cable car runs from 10am, takes about 10 minutes, and costs around €7.50 return for adults (half price for children). You can also drive up if you prefer.

Adega do Ermitão: the most uniquely Portuguese meal you'll ever have

But here's the real reason you need to go to Penha.

Adega do Ermitão is a tiny family-run tavern that's been going for over 40 years, built right inside one of the rock grottoes. You sit under the boulder, and it's unlike anywhere else I've eaten in Portugal. Order bolo com sardinhas (a bread base topped with fried sardines), caldo verde served in clay bowls, bolinhos de bacalhau (fishcakes kids love), and wash it all down with vinho verde (green wine) from clay mugs. It's one of the most uniquely Portuguese eating experiences I know. Kids are completely welcome. No one bats an eyelid.

Fair warning: on weekends the queue can be long. People start arriving before it opens at 12:30. Go on a weekday if you can, or just embrace the wait. It's worth it.

This is the kind of place that makes me love living in Portugal. Not the tourist trail. The places where locals actually go on a Saturday with their families.

Beyond the centre: more ideas for families

Quinta das Manas

About 15 minutes from Guimarães is this pedagogical farm where kids can interact with and feed a huge variety of animals, from ostriches to owls to goats and ferrets. You need to pre-book your visit.

Citânia de Briteiros

A Celtic archaeological site worth a detour if your family enjoys ruins and outdoor exploring. It dates back to the 1st century BC, with defensive walls and stone huts spread across a hillside forming a fortified village. There are two reconstructed huts that show how people lived in those days, plus the Pedra Formosa, a carved monolith from an ancient bathhouse. You get a map at the entrance and follow your own path. The views from the café are great too. One warning: the site closes at lunchtime.

Festival time

If you can time your visit, Guimarães has two festivals that are brilliant for families.

Feira Afonsina (late June, around the 21st to 24th) takes the whole city back to the medieval era for four days. Historical re-enactments, food stalls with medieval treats, and shops selling traditional crafts. Kids absolutely love it.

Festas Gualterianas (early August) is a celebration of Saint Guálter with open-air concerts, floats, parades, fireworks and general fun. It gets very busy though, so be prepared for crowds.

Practical tips

Getting there: Guimarães is about an hour from Porto by train (direct from São Bento or Campanhã station). It makes a brilliant day trip from Porto, or combine it with a morning in the old town and an afternoon up Penha for a full day.
Parking: The old town is pedestrian-only, but there are several car parks on the outskirts. Parque Público Condessa Mumadona is perfectly located.
Getting around: Everything in the old town is walkable, even with young children. It's compact and mostly flat in the centre.
Pushchairs: Cobblestones everywhere. It works, but it's bumpy. A carrier might be easier for very little ones.
Time needed: Half a day for the old town alone. A full day if you add Penha (which you should).

Frequently asked questions

Is Guimarães worth visiting with kids?

Absolutely. The castle alone makes it worthwhile, and unlike Sintra, it's uncrowded and genuinely family-friendly. Add the cable car, Penha's giant boulders, and a meal at Adega do Ermitão, and you have one of the best family days out in northern Portugal.

How do you get from Porto to Guimarães?

By direct train from Porto (São Bento or Campanhã station). The journey takes about an hour. Trains run regularly throughout the day. You can also drive in about 50 minutes. It's an easy day trip from Porto.

Is Guimarães better than Sintra for families?

They're very different. Sintra has fairy-tale palaces but is crowded, hilly, and can be exhausting with kids. Guimarães has medieval history, a real castle kids can explore freely, a cable car, and Penha's natural adventure playground. If your children prefer climbing and exploring over admiring palace interiors, Guimarães wins. And it's a fraction of the cost.

How long do you need in Guimarães?

Half a day covers the old town comfortably. A full day lets you add the cable car up Penha and lunch at Adega do Ermitão, which I'd strongly recommend. If you want to include Quinta das Manas or Citânia de Briteiros, you might want an overnight stay.

What is Adega do Ermitão?

A family-run tavern at the top of Penha mountain in Guimarães, built inside a natural rock grotto. It's been open for over 40 years and serves traditional Portuguese food (sardines on bread, caldo verde, bolinhos de bacalhau) with vinho verde from clay mugs. It's one of the most unique dining experiences in Portugal and very family-friendly. Go on a weekday to avoid long queues.

Is Guimarães walkable with young children?

Yes. The old town is compact and mostly flat. The castle is uphill but it's a short climb. Pushchairs work on the cobblestones but it's bumpy. For Penha, the cable car does the hard work for you.

When is the best time to visit Guimarães with kids?

Spring and early autumn are lovely. If you can time it for the Feira Afonsina in late June, the medieval festival is a real highlight for families. Summer is fine but can be hot. The Festas Gualterianas in August are fun but crowded.

Planning a trip to northern Portugal?

Guimarães is one of the highlights of any northern Portugal itinerary, and it pairs brilliantly with Porto, Braga, and the Douro Valley. If you're planning a family trip and want someone to help you figure out the logistics, I can help.

I offer personalised trip planning for families, from a quick Pick My Brains session (€45, 30 minutes) to a full custom itinerary (from €195) with day-by-day plans, restaurant suggestions, and a personalised Google Map. Everything is 100% custom and 100% independent.

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If you're heading to Porto specifically, grab my Eat with Us in Porto guide (€5.99) for 50+ tried-and-tested family-friendly restaurant addresses, or my Porto Kids & Family Guide (€5.99) for everything you need to know about visiting Porto with children.

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Guimarães with kids: castles, cable cars and the best hidden tavern in Portugal