Inside: tips and itinerary for discovering the Azores (São Miguel) with a camper van with a family

As we went down that tiny road with a 180° bend, none of us were talking. We both knew we would be facing that bend and its 10% incline again the next morning.

Travelling with a camper van on a small island is not something for the faint-hearted. Here, I give you the lowdown about what we loved and didn’t love about renting a camper van on São Miguel island, Azores, plus everything that’s changed since we first did this trip.

Accommodation on the Azores can be tricky. The growing number of tourists visiting the islands means that good family-friendly places get booked up really quickly, especially in peak season. When we booked our holiday, we were late to the game and struggled to find something that fit our requirements. While searching for alternative options, we came across the camping-car idea. On a spur of the moment, we booked one, not really thinking it through. It turned out to be a fabulous idea but also maybe the craziest idea to date.

A note on scope: camper van rentals are currently available on São Miguel island only. You won’t find rental providers on the other islands, and you cannot take a campervan on the inter-island ferries. If you’re planning a multi-island trip (and you should, it’s incredible), check out my 3 weeks in the Azores with kids itinerary for how we combined islands.

Is a camper van right for your family?

A camper van on São Miguel is brilliant for families who love a bit of adventure and don’t mind roughing it slightly. It’s not for everyone, and that’s fine. Here’s who I think it works best for:

Families with older kids (4+) who are happy to muck in. Toddlers in a camper van on narrow mountain roads is a different kind of challenge.
Confident drivers who are comfortable with steep inclines, narrow roads and tight bends. This is not the place to learn.
Families who value flexibility over luxury. You’ll trade a comfy hotel bed for waking up next to a volcanic lake with nobody else around. Worth it, in my opinion.

My top tip: don’t do the whole trip in the camper. Book a few nights in regular accommodation too, especially for areas like Furnas which is really tricky to access with a larger vehicle. That way you get the best of both worlds.

What we didn't like

I’ll start with the negatives because I think you need to go in with your eyes open. But trust me, they are largely outweighed by the positives.

The roads are narrow and not built for larger vehicles. As soon as you get off the main roads, you’ll find that the roads are really narrow and you will stick out with your campervan. Keep your distances, drive carefully on corners and plan your routes. We struggled to get through some of the villages (Mosteiros was particularly hair-raising).
Campsite options for campervans are still limited. Sete Cidades remains the main campsite that accepts campervans freely (it’s free, by the way). The Furnas campsite now also accepts motorhomes in the car park area, but only from July to September. Most other campsites are designed for tents and are difficult to reach with a larger vehicle.
Campervan infrastructure is still developing. There are no proper service areas (aires) where you can empty waste water and refill your tank like you’d find on the mainland or in France. Your rental company should be able to help with this. When we went, we simply drove back to the rental base to empty, free of charge (distances are short).

What we liked/loved

The freedom. Stopping in a random car park facing the sea, preparing our sandwiches, the kids going down for a nap while we just sat and watched the Atlantic. Those first few days in the camper van meant we relaxed straight away. No check-in times, no driving back to a hotel. Just us and the island.
Having the quiet spots to ourselves. Because accommodation is still developing, many villages and areas of natural beauty are still relatively far from the big hotels. This means that these beautiful spots are empty in the mornings and late afternoons. We found ourselves almost entirely alone at some of the most stunning places on the island. That is the magic of a camper van here.

Wild camping rules in the Azores: what you need to know (2026 update)

This is important and has changed since we first visited.

Portugal introduced new legislation in 2021 (Law 66/2021) that allows campervans to park overnight in the same municipality for up to 48 hours, as long as you follow the rules. However, this has been tightened since then and enforcement varies. Here’s what you need to know:

You can park overnight in public parking areas for up to 48 hours within the same municipality.
You must NOT display camping behaviour. No awnings, no chairs or tables outside, no outdoor cooking. If it looks like camping rather than parking, you’re breaking the rules.
Natura 2000 zones and protected areas are strictly off-limits for overnight stays. Some areas of São Miguel falls within protected areas, so check before you park up for the night.
Fines range from €60 to €600 and are actively enforced in popular spots.
The Park4night app is really useful for finding spots where other campervanners have stayed. You can check photos and read recent reviews from real travellers.

When we first visited, the rules were less clear. We parked in a few spots where technically we probably shouldn’t have, and nobody minded. The island is becoming more popular though, so I’d say be respectful and play it safe now.

Where to sleep

Here are 3 spots we loved, plus what’s changed.

Sete Cidades campsite (free)

This is the main ‘official’ spot for campervans and it’s still free. It’s a big grass field with basic toilets, showers (cold water) and fresh water. Campervans can’t drive onto the grass, so you’ll park on the gravel car park area. It’s a bit rough but the location is wonderful. You’re five minutes from the stunning lake of Sete Cidades where you can kayak and swim. The little village has a small café and a cash point. Heads up: it can get noisy at weekends when local teenagers use the lower area as a gathering spot.

Baixa d’Areia, Caloura

Once we’d navigated the hair-raising bends to reach the small car park, it was a lovely spot. A small car park at the end of a narrow road, at a dead end. There’s a toilet and a beautiful sandy beach. We slept in the car park and nobody said anything, despite the large number of municipal employees who turned up the next morning to set up for the jazz festival. Really quiet with gorgeous views once all the day-trippers had gone.

Piscina Natural Da Boca De Ribeira (pictured below)

Now, I’m not sure if I should recommend this or not. Please go there at your own risk! At the bottom of a very narrow and VERY steep road is a gorgeous natural pool by the sea. It’s really secluded (mostly locals) and oh so lovely. After much deliberation, we went down with the camper van. The car park was perfect. We heard only birds and the sea. Our favourite spot ever. Driving back up the next morning was genuinely terrifying and for experienced drivers only. Make sure you have a good engine and know how to handle steep gradients. Seriously.

A word of caution about Rabo de Peixe: avoid this area for camping. This was the only place that felt unsafe when we visited. If you’ve watched the Netflix series Turn of the Tide (Rabo de Peixe), which has become a massive international hit since 2023, you’ll understand why. The series is based on a true story about cocaine washing ashore in this fishing village. It’s now in its third season and has put the village on the map.

Our favourite spots on São Miguel with the camper van

The little village and beach of Mosteiros (pictured below)

Despite the difficult drive in and out of it, at the end of the road, there is a gorgeous rocky beach. The whole family snorkeled in the shallow pools. It was heaven. having the camper, also meant it was easier to get ready, get changed, leave things to dry, etc. We spent a whole day there and could have easily done more.

The lake of Sete Cidades

The lake gets very busy at weekends with locals. During the week, there are tourists who seem to only pass by, for the majority. It takes a little while to drive there and there are no hotels. So, it gets really quiet very quickly. Having the camper and a place to stop nearby meant we could stay longer. We rented kayaks and spent hours on the lake. Bliss.

The natural pool of Nordeste

Again, this seems to be a spot for locals. The access road is tricky and most tourists prefer not to venture there. If your heart can take it, drive down and enjoy it late afternoon when people start leaving. A beautiful afternoon and evening.

Our best tips for camper van travel on São Miguel

Stock up when you see a supermarket. They’re not that regular in some corners of the island. Basics can be found in little village stores, but don’t rely on it.
Don’t be afraid to ask for help. People are really lovely in the Azores. The novelty of a camper van on the island means locals are generally happy to help and curious about what you’re up to.
Use packing cubes. All of our gear was in packing cubes. On arrival, we emptied our suitcases quickly, stored them in the camper’s locked compartment and used only our packing cubes. Game changer in a small space.
Download offline maps and Park4night. A good map is essential. Small roads mean small roads! The Park4night app will help you find overnight spots, water points and other campervan essentials.
Book a few nights without the camper. Some places just aren’t practical with a large vehicle. Furnas, for example, is really difficult to access. Combining camper nights with a hotel or Airbnb gives you the best of both worlds.
Choose a van with a self-contained bathroom if possible. This wasn’t an option when we went, but providers like Amped Campers now offer VW Grand California vans with built-in showers and toilets. Given the lack of service infrastructure on the island, this makes a big difference.

Our supplier

Camper van rental providers on São Miguel (2026)

When we went in 2019, there was only one provider. The good news is there are now several options:

ANC Azores Holidays (the one we used)

Still going strong and still offering campervan rentals alongside car hire and tours. They were helpful, provided everything we needed (bedding, cleaning supplies, outdoor eating equipment, even starter groceries), and serviced the van when we couldn’t find anywhere to empty the waste. They also do airport transfers. We later rented a car with them too. No complaints at all, and they’ve since won awards for their car rental service. This is not a sponsored mention. We simply had a good experience.

Amped Campers

A newer provider offering VW Grand California vans with proper bathroom facilities, kitchenette, heating and air conditioning. They include all equipment, unlimited kilometres and extra drivers at no charge. They also offer a pet-friendly package, if that’s relevant. Their blog has useful camping information specific to São Miguel.

You can also find campervans listed on platforms like Airbnb and Yescapa (a European peer-to-peer campervan rental platform). Prices generally start from around €75 per day depending on the season and the vehicle.

None of the links above are affiliate or sponsored. I just want to give you options.

Frequently asked questions about camper vans in the Azores

Can you rent a camper van on other Azores islands besides São Miguel?

Currently, campervan rental is only available on São Miguel. The other islands don’t have rental providers, and you cannot take a campervan on the inter-island ferries. For our guide to exploring the other islands, see my posts on Faial with kids and São Jorge with kids.

Is wild camping legal in the Azores?

Wild camping (setting up tents, awnings, tables, etc.) is not legal in Portugal, including the Azores. However, campervans can park overnight in public parking areas for up to 48 hours within the same municipality, as long as you don’t display ‘camping behaviour’ like setting up chairs outside. Overnight stays are strictly prohibited in Natura 2000 and other protected zones. Fines range from €60 to €600.

How much does it cost to rent a camper van on São Miguel?

Prices vary by season and vehicle type, but expect to pay from around €75 per day for a basic van. More premium options like the VW Grand California will cost more. In peak season (July and August), book well in advance as availability is limited.

Are the roads on São Miguel safe for a campervan?

The main roads are in good condition, but secondary roads are narrow, steep and full of tight bends. Confident driving is a must. Some villages (like Mosteiros) are genuinely difficult to navigate with a larger vehicle. Plan your routes carefully and avoid driving at night if you can.

Where can I empty the waste water from my campervan on São Miguel?

There are still no proper motorhome service areas (aires) on São Miguel. Your best option is to arrange this with your rental provider. When we visited, we simply drove back to the rental company’s base to empty and refill, free of charge. Choosing a self-contained van with its own toilet and shower reduces this problem significantly.

What is the best time of year to rent a campervan on São Miguel?

We went in July, which is peak season. The weather is warmest from June to September, but the Azores are known for changeable weather year-round. You can genuinely experience four seasons in one day. Summer means longer daylight hours and more outdoor swimming opportunities, but also higher prices and more demand for campervans. Shoulder season (May, June, September, October) offers a good balance.

Is renting a campervan in the Azores suitable for families with young children?

It depends on your family. We did it with our kids and loved it, but the narrow roads, steep inclines and basic facilities mean it’s not for every family. I’d recommend it more for families with children aged 4 and above who are comfortable with a bit of adventure. For younger children, consider renting a car instead and staying in family-friendly accommodation. For my full São Miguel with kids guide, check out my detailed post with everything from thermal pools to pineapple tasting.

Planning a trip to the Azores with your family?

The Azores are one of my absolute favourite destinations for families. There’s something magical about these islands that you just don’t find on mainland Portugal.

If you’re planning a trip and feeling overwhelmed (I get it, there’s a lot to think about), I can help. I offer personalised trip planning for families, from a quick Pick My Brains session where you can fire all your questions at me, to a full custom itinerary with day-by-day plans, accommodation recommendations, restaurant suggestions and a personalised map. Everything is 100% custom and 100% independent. I don’t book travel, which means every recommendation is unbiased and tailored just for your family.

➡️ Book a session at passportsdetours.com/plan-a-trip

All in all, we would rent a campervan all over again. We loved it. The island’s infrastructure is slowly catching up, and with more rental providers now available, it’s easier than ever. It allowed us to experience São Miguel’s beauty in a different way than most other travellers, and that is something we always love.

For more information about our trip to the Azores, check out my Instagram highlights. There is one for each island we visited.

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